Personal gears for expedition

FOOTWEAR:

  1. Double Plastic Climbing Boots. Suggest: Scarpa Invernos, or One Sport Everest. 
  2. Light hiking boots.
  3. Crampons.  Suggested: Charlet Moser Super 12 Rapidfix Lanieres, Grivel G12 New-Matic, or Black Diamond Sabertooth.
  4. Gaiters.   Not needed with One Sport Everest Boots.
  5. Booties.  Polar guard.  Optional. Wool or pile socks.
  6. 04 pair of Heavyweight wool or synthetic socks (wool is warmer) to be worn over the liner socks.  When layering socks, check fit over feet and inside boots. Remember to keep one fresh, dry pair of socks available at all times.
  7. Liner Socks.  A pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene to be worn next to the skin.  This reduces incidence of blisters and hot-spots.
  8. Vapor barrier socks.  Optional.

CLIMBING TOOLS:

  1. Ice Axe w/Leash.  General mountaineering tool.  Suggested:  SMC Himalayan or Black Diamond
  2. Carabiners (4) Locking; (6) Regular.  2 HMS Twistlock &  2 small screwgate lockers; 6 standard ovals
  3. Ascenders (2).  Petzls recommended. One right and one left.
  4. Rappel device.  1 Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid.
  5. Alpine Climbing Harness.  Suggested:  Black Diamond Bod Harness or Alpine Bod w/ modification.
  6. Adjustable Ski/Trekking Poles

CLIMBING CLOTHING

  1. Expedition downsuit and light underwear.
  2. Pair Polypro or Capilene.
  3. Light weight  Underwear.  2-3 pair top & bottom, Capilene, other synthetic or wool. No Cotton.  Lightweight is preferable as it is more versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and double layer for colder).
  4. Zip-T-neck tops allow more.  Suggested: North Face Micronamics, Marmot DriClime, or  Patagonia Capilene.
  5. Pile Jacket.   Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300). A full-zip version is easier to put on and has better ventilation than a pull-over. Suggested: North Face Polar Sun or equivalent. 
  6. Pile Pants.Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300)  with full separating side zippers (This is very important for ventilation and for ease of dressing up or down when conditions change in the middle of a climb). Suggested: North Face Polar Sun or equivalent.
  7. Down Pants. To fit over insulation layers. Outer shell must be windproof.  Suggested: Feathered Friends Helios or Volant.
  8. Down Parka (Fully Baffled, Expedition Weight, must have good hood) Suggested: North Face Baltoro, Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero, Marmot 8000meter, or Feathered Friends Rock & Ice. 
  9. Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood. (Bibs recommended) For the jacket we highly recommend a long front zipper, a roomy rather than snug fit and underarm zips which go well below the armpit.  (We also require full separating side zippers on the pants. Suggested: North Face Mtn. Bib or Mtn. Light Pant, Mtn. Hardware Exposure Bib or Ethereal Pant).

SLEEPING:

  1. Sleeping Bag.  (Expedition quality rated to at least -35/-40F). Good to have 02
  2. 02 Sleeping Pads.One, 3/4 or full-length closed-cell foam Ridge Rest and One, 3/4 length or full-length Therma-rest w/repair kit.
  3. Sleeping inner; optional 
  4. Self inflated pillow or airblow ; optional

MITTS GLOVES:

  1. 2 Pair Synthetic Gloves.  Suggested: North Face, Patagonia.
  2. 2 Pair Pile Mitts and Gore-Tex Overmitts (-30). 
  3. Down Mitts. Should be big enough so that gloves fit inside pile liners.
  4. Hand warmer.

HEADGEAR:

  1. Baseball Cap or other Sun hat and bandanna to shade the neck.
  2. Wool or pile ski hat. Make sure ears are covered.
  3. Balaclava (1) Heavy weight, (1) Light weight: Heavyweight must fit over lightweight.
  4. Neoprene face mask.  Optional
  5. 5. Head lamp (Plenty of extra bulbs & batteries). Suggested:  Petzl Zoom or Artic.
  6. 6. 2 Pairs of Glacier glasses.  100% UV, high quality optical lenses designed for mountain use, must have full side covers with nose guard. Suggested:  Bolle, RayBan, Julbo Round "Arc".  
  7. If you wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses-it is a good idea to have these with "photo-gray" or equivalent light-sensitive material so they can double as emergency sunglasses.  
  8. If you wear glasses we recommend prescription glacier glasses (dark gray or green).  No more than 6% light transmission.
  9. Ski Goggles, 1 pair.  100% UV & IR. 

CAMPING:

  1. Backpack.  Internal frame pack expandable to 6,000 cu.in. Keep it simple and light, avoid unnecessary zippers, etc which add weight. Recommended: North Face, Kelty, Gregory.
  2. Daypack.  Optional for trekking days.
  3. Swiss Army knife.
  4. Big Lighter.
  5. 1 Liter Thermos.
  6. Cup:  16oz. plastic with snap-on lid (retains heat well and is spill resistant in the tent). Optiona
  7. Spoon: Good quality tough plastic (lexan). Optional
  8. Bowl: Deep plastic with 2-3 cup capacity. Optional
  9. Water Bottles:  02 liters minimum capacity.  One, 1.5 liter & One .5 liter wide-mouth.  Hunnersdorf are recommended (they withstand temperature extremes and abuse better than Nalgene)
  10. Pee Bottle (1 Liter).  
  11. Pee Funnel (for women).  
  12. Sunscreen.  SPF 40 or better, 2 small tubes.
  13. 13. Lipscreen.  SPF 40 or better, at least 2 sticks.
  14. Personal first aid kit. Aspirin, Moleskin, Adhesive tape, Band-Aids, Diamox
  15. Personal medications.
     

TRAVELING

  1. Large duffel bags. 02 for transporting gear.
  2. Compression Stuff Sacks especially for sleeping bags and clothing.
  3. 4 Plastic Bags.  To line stuff sacks to keep gear dry 
  4. Travel clothes.
  5. Toiletry bag.
  6. Camera gear.  Optional
  7. Books and maps
  8. 8. Binoculars 
  9. Notepad, pen and pencils